… besides the “Superior Electric” but you can’t buy it anywhere beside the Allied Electric.  I have no idea why others do not see them.

cv wrote:

Prosaic question - what's the part number for these? Finally building some LF arrays and need a good few reasonably priced good sounding posts... sounds like these will fit the bill.

You might find them in Allied catalog at 

http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/pf.aspx?FN=434.pdf

Look at the middle of the page, all those BP30s are good. Years back, when I build ridicules external crossover for AG Trio I have done very thorough investigation into the sound of the binding posts. I know, it sounds stupid but I did buy all of them and I did listen all of them – I still have that shoe box with all imaginable binding posts. It was a strange conclusion:  the more the binding posts looks and feel “hi-endish” then more horrible it sounds. The worst of them were the most expensive large WBT posts. The Superior Electric were hand and shoulder better then anything I have tried.

What I concluded that it is not the Superior Electric posts themselves are the key but the design type. Most of the Hi-Fi company tries to make the post to look impressive making it “large”. That excessive amount of metals in the connection fucks up sound very much, making bass hollow.  What is important is to have a binding post that would not introduce too much gauge difference in connection area relative to the rest of your cable.

The Superior Electric post do not look very impressive, in fact the look very cheap but they are have absolutely no competition in term of sound quality. Thai is perhaps you would never see them in high-end equipment.

The BP30-2 post has hex head. You might get any hex wrench and it is no problem anymore. I found that that the Audioquest wrench is VERY comfortable as my posts are flimsy for my cables (Dominus is VERY heavy) and I shall not apply overly high torque. The Audioquest wrench is very nice as after a few posts that you destroy you learn how much stupid torque you might apply.

http://www.musicdirect.com/product/72740

Make sure you have two – green and red for right and for lest channels ....

I remember I was keep losing the wrench, the Koshka always love to play with it footballing in all imaginary places. Then I attached to them a magnet and just magnet the wrench to the amps back. I heard that if I do not use a regular magnet but a field coil then it will be able to find it twice faster on the back of the amp….

I know for some it is not a big deal but wait until you need to connect 24 cables (My Dominus are dial mono) in a specific order while you are in a very not comfy position bent over the amps…. A good wrench is a certainly is very good help.

Paul S wrote:

Over time I have observed that, in most cases, one quickly turns the corner from "enough' connector mass to suddenly arrive at "too much" connector mass.  I started out with a cable clamp like Jessie shows for my 6 gauge "dedicated ground" wire for just the reasons Jessie cites, that it needs to be REALLY TIGHT.  From that point,  I actually wound up soldering that whole effing junction to "protect" it/keep it from "going bad". Warning: The following is for total OCD nutbags only: I always clean my solder joints mechanically; then I "pacify" them with alkaline flux buster; then I coat the joints with a couple of applications of very saturated "natural" shellac. In other words, I crimp down key permanent connections, then I solder them (with high copper content solder...), then I keep the air off the joints. I have already shared the dielectric grease "secret" for "normal" "mechanical" connections, including (so far, so good...) tube pin connections. I used to use Caig Pro Gold on my amp/speaker connections; but now I use di-electric grease on all 'temporary" "mechanical" connections' (6 months , and all is well...). not to bust any DIY bubbles, but the fact is that most "soldered" joints are also - effectively - "mechanical" connections, very similar to the vicious copper lug Jessie shared, and not always that good electrically, FWIW.   Not to make work for those commited to easier "solutions", but I settled on my "system" by listening and I "backed it up" with measurements, apropos Caveat: If ignorance is bliss, STAY AWAY from volt meters!  Do NOT experiment with signal/noise/loss readings across various connections! Paul S

Hi Paul

My take on this is simple; what does industry do with these same parameters, as electricity usage (and loss) means big bucks to them.

They do not use any of these methods, but instead use practiced and specific standard electrical code standards and means and practices.

Why does audio not follow this, why is audio bound to be above standard electrical practices, and why are audio persons bound to skew good and sound electrical practices into other zones of/for sonic reasons?

Electricity flows as it does, not as we desire.

Can you (or we) hear differently or is this just a personal achievement of a good job of electrical connecting?

curious, j. 

Paul S wrote:

'Standard Practice" most certainly depends on what part of "industry" you are looking at.  While an automoble assembly line might adopt one set of standards, submarine SONAR or interstellar spectrometry systems, for example, would most certainly use others. Clearly, it is exactly the VERY SPECIFIC regulation of "electricity" that determines how those "electrons" present themselves after "processing". I think zip cord people and other circular thinkers have their own sites. Paul S

I have to agree with you on "parts of industry", with specific standards inherent in specialization, but "specific regulation" if inaudible does not matter to me. And the process is to get a coil to move in a magnet. Simple enough, I think.

And when is enough enough?

That is my only point in this, but a job well done is something else entirely, with or without the advancement of audio sonic results.

Which brings to mind this interesting article- by Nilay Patelposted Mar 3rd 2008 at 8:03PM on engadget HD.

Audiophiles can't tell the difference between Monster Cable and coat hangers

My thoughts here, in no way circular, not subject to change without notice really.

"P.S. I wished I owned a zip cord manufacturing plant." Maybe I could buy myself a nice meal, in a fine restaurant, go to a movie, have a few dollars to go shopping, that sort of thing. 

Take care, j. 

Paul S wrote:

J, I hope you know by now that I really don't care about anything audio but my own results, except that I actually like sharing about this a little.  Very specifically, I have absolutely no interest in trying to convince anyone of anything audio. I did not and will not read the Monster Cable vs.coathanger thread, since it IS circular thinking, after all, on the face of it and at the heart of it's premise. The best approach to this site, IMO, is not to simply stir things up but rather to read extensively in order to be able to establish a relevant context as a basis for evaluating the information.  This, IMO, is one's best shot at productive dialog here. Best regards, Paul S

Thanks Paul

I have extensively read this site, which formed my opinion to contribute to it. I have not to Lynn Olson's, DIY audioforums, as I find it overly analytical and cerebral, I am an emotional person at heart. I care not for mathematical explanations of the musical kind.

But what I am saying is that if this is about higher audio and the advancement of it, the very premise of this site, then how do we proceed to do it, for real, and in a relevant way?

In my mind, I always come back to this point. 

I've said it, this is one of the best. But it can go off quite a bit, into it's own little ethereal thing. I enjoy this, understand emotions of it, but sometimes, feel I must step up to the plate and ground it.

I now think I may be wrong with this absolutely.

Stirring stuff seems the point of this site, with owner/author especially, and I had assumed that I could contribute somewhat, but think this is not really the case anymore.

I work and live in a highly competitive workplace environment, and I hold no grudges and will say to you what I mean, without remorse, and my attitude reflects this for sure. I also don't care about audio anymore or less, but really wished my audio ideas were relevant, as my experience goes back quite a bit.

I now doubt this, as like you, my path is my own, and audio seems so disfunctional in "togetherness" or even dialog, my excitement for it has possibly gone in my youth. Romy has told me to fit in, now you. Then, not fitting in Lynn Olson's cerebral club, or this feline one, mj should and/or shall vanish, possibly?

"I now say probably."

And quirky audio ideas can blossom here, unimpeded by logic and reason and listening, with egos intact all around. I am sure, mjhe will not be missed greatly. But they also say, do not kill the messenger. So I apologize, as I am merrily him.

Because I am a Romy site fan, not just a contributor,

I remain, REspectfully Yours, j.

J, I mean no disrespect when I say it is not about you - at all.

It is certainly not my place to instruct, and I am not interested in any aspect of the Monster Cable vs. coathanger (vs' "audiophiles") "controversy".


Best regards,
Paul S

Paul S wrote:

J, I mean no disrespect when I say it is not about you - at all. It is certainly not my place to instruct, and I am not interested in any aspect of the Monster Cable vs. coathanger (vs' "audiophiles") "controversy". Best regards, Paul S

The only real interaction I wish with copper is of this kind, 

regards, j. 

Paul S wrote:

fiogf49gjkf0dOver time I have observed that, in most cases, one quickly turns the corner from "enough' connector mass to suddenly arrive at "too much" connector mass.  I started out with a cable clamp like Jessie shows for my 6 gauge "dedicated ground" wire for just the reasons Jessie cites, that it needs to be REALLY TIGHT.  From that point,  I actually wound up soldering that whole effing junction to "protect" it/keep it from "going bad". Warning: The following is for total OCD nutbags only: I always clean my solder joints mechanically; then I "pacify" them with alkaline flux buster; then I coat the joints with a couple of applications of very saturated "natural" shellac.