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| Romy the Cat's
personal site dedicated to advanced audio and evolved music reproduction
techniques
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Jessie, I’m very ignorant in materialology but I have a “common sense” concern. I do not see that you imbedded into your plaster construction any tightening points from a stronger material. I mean: the holes in plaster – how strong you will be able t...
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Ah, your horn this way does not have own axis and the axis of the back plate become actually the axis of the horn? This way you get rid the ugliest element of co-axising – the integration of the axis of horn and the back plate. Very-very cool indeed!...
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You could isolate the horn from the plaster with 1/2 inch white foam window insulation and cover over it between horn and plaster wth white silicone or putty window sealant. ...
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Quotes from Romy in blue :I do not see that you imbedded into your plaster construction any tightening points from a stronger material. I mean: the holes in plaster – how strong you will be able to tight the bolts before the plaster will give up? Did...
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Jessie, I’m very ignorant in materialology but I have a “common sense” concern. I do not see that you imbedded into your plaster construction any tightening points from a stronger material. I mean: the holes in plaster – how strong you will be able t...
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Thank you Ulf and Jessie,
I can't wait to get this started. Jessie I am going to send this plaster spec to my supplier and see if I can find something close..
In the past I would use plaster for creating a wax form.. then put the wax form into a s...
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And now, going back to page 2 of this thread; here we pick up with some shots of the upper bass horn and the associated primitive "tooling"Mold without coreMold with core. Before core is put in place, mold is loaded with a thick coat o...
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I should point out that my experience might not be representative because my horn is wrapped in 1 and 1/2 inch diameter manila rope and then doused in high density plaster, so it weights about 50kg or so. A simpler solution might be their "ultrafi" v...
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Here's how I'd make a hard rear cover/rear chamber.I describe the process in detail, as it is a good investment of my time; I expect to have a similar condition and requirement for my own mid-bass horns (intended for use with AK-151s).This approach c...
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Romy wrote:"...The material itself – what to use. I am wide open from any type of wood to synthetic panels (like cement panels). Perhaps it might be a combination of organic and synthetic layers..."I realize you won't be doing the work yourself, but ...
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OK, on Monday my carpenter will do all necessary work to fine align the horns, to tight and to solidify what need to be. The framework with horn will be over and on Tuesday he will cover the things with sheetrock (drywall) and begin to apply the fin...
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Thinking of the transition from round to triangular, I go back to Jessie's fibrated "plaster" for the round profile section. To make the transition, make the narrow end of the triangle "too long", and somewhat larger inside than need be, to serve as ...
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Romy wrote :
"...Alternately you might use hairy wood of rough plaster surface as Jessie might do with his plaster horns..."
I'm currently using Hammerite textured paint to seal the plaster. This stuff (originally designed to prevent rust) has...
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It should be read: "...Alternately you might use hairy wood OR rough plaster surface as Jessie might do with his plaster horns..." Anyhow if you use textured paint then there is an easy was to increase size. When you spray the paint do not spay f...
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Hello Malinowski,
Sounds like you may already have the necessary experience in working with plaster, but in case you're not used to making anything this large:
For the final horns, especially if they are large, use hard modeling plaster. My up...
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Jessie, absolutely wonderful. Dima used the very same techniques to build his own MF horn. BTW, I made in past a prototype horn with similar idea that ended up disasters because of my stupid “willingness”. While I was applying plaster I spared ...
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Reading how you plan to go about making this horn, I offer the following (this first one you probably aready know):Make the outside of the mold in quarters or thirds and hold it together using fabric straps (not bolted flanges)... If you make it...
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Paul,Well it would be silly for me to insist that I'm absolutely correct here, as I too am only basing my analysis only on what I see, and what experience I have been able to amass (some profession-related, a little in...
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Paul S wrote :
"...Jessie, you know I am not a horn guy. I played with horns for 5 years, and I have heard plenty of them, and so far none have worked for me, musically. But I have remained mindful of horns' potential, and I keep coming back ...
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Gargoyle, YMMV, but I associate LF propagation/amplification with mass; there has to be some way to really "anchor" at least the LF driver. I was thinking MF for the felt and/or paper horns, although I guess you could begin with a chicken wire form ...
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Another optrionwould be to plaster within 1/2 or 1/4 inch to horn and then surround horn openig with door framing wood not quie touchig the drywall. Would also add a little bit to the look of the horns....
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hi wojtek!i know, with the 160hz i may run into problems. i thought about making tractrix horns or maybe go for 400x-over with the 204´s from martin. his price is really good! i would cover the horns with something, maybe sand, maybe plaster.lat...
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I know you do not want to do it, but it is a shame not to do it: actually manufacture a version of the Macondo with an integrated dset, cut down enough (say three channels) to make it feasible while still demonstrating the advantages of the dset idea...
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I did put some gasketing under the driver, not thought but to so what it will do. I used the substance that I described above. It is Home Depot 3207680110 or the model #DS110 Pug duct seal by GB Electrical. The best thing about it that it is that pla...
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op.9,
to put your comment I perspective it is necessary to know what surface you had on your Lecleach horns before. If you search the site (use world textured or structured) then you would know that I am a vocal opponent of smooth surfaces on horns....
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Romy quotes in blue (pulled from the "Adding one more channel to the Macondos" thread) "1) Make sure that your cone is properly center in a gap. It is very important as misaligned cone will do compression at bottom end"
I feel confident that I am ab...
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Pretty freaking cool, Jessie. So, where can you put this monster where you can still get far enough away to listen to it?!?If you pursue this, you might tack weld or screw on expanded metal mesh between the ribs of that behemoth so you&nbs...
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I would turn upside-down mid bass horns ,mount drivers in Heavy box and cover plastic (ABS ?) horns with very thick layer of stynthetic plaster (the one LeCleach is using to "cast " his horns .So now he'd have horizontal J shape and it would be fairl...
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because floor josts support and extend the walls (they are solid 2"x6")so just screwed the board tightly to them. Because I needed the boards only within 10' so I have 3 rows of 5' +5' with the seam in the middle. I cut the second layer of bards so ...
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[quote user="Romy the Cat"] It is very self-explanatory and liked it a lot. The advantage is that it might be used in any rectangular room and the most important that it is VERY simple to build this way. I think that if I have room then I might stop ...
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