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04-26-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 61
Post ID: 19286
Reply to: 19285
Kind of irelevent.
fiogf49gjkf0d
Yes, Daniel, this resistor is somewhere between 30R and 100R, the value is not truly important. The purpose of the resistor is to slightly decouple the potentials of plate to grid, it cares no current and you might use 1/8W resistor or even less. BTW, you mentioned that you use 6E5PI tubes – DO NOT do it. The 6E5PI is not the same tube as 6E5P. That pulse operating tube slightly smaller glass and has very much not usable sound. The 6E5PI tune shall be trashed.

Rgs, Romy


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
04-27-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 62
Post ID: 19289
Reply to: 19286
No 6E5PI
fiogf49gjkf0d
Yes I have 6e5p . The 6e5pi was a typo,I have read your comments about this tube.Btw what kind of fuse (240v) is needed for the amp ?
RegardsDaniel
04-27-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 63
Post ID: 19290
Reply to: 19289
A fuse.
fiogf49gjkf0d
Hm, that is a good question. I honestly do not remember. The 6ch Super Melquiades has 7A fuse but I have no memory about the fuse I used in single channels amp. During the assembly I used the lamp fuse – that is given but in the final version I just do nor remember. I do think that you will figure out, start from 3A and go ups if it feels too little. Make sure that you use slow blow fuses – this is very important for this design. The amp has input choked and then the current rushes in for the first time you will have a huge current draw. The slow-blow fuse will be holding it.

I still have a pair of full range, single channels Melquiades  and I think I need to plug them in into a watt meter and to wee what current they drown normally. It is possible to calculate it but easy to measure. The amps in the basement and they are very heavy. If you truly need I can do it but I do not think that it shall be so critical for you at this moment. As you make the map, measure the current and use a fuse of 1.5-2.0 times more. I would anticipate that during a normal operation it shall consume around 150-170W that would make it 1.4A, so the 2.5A-3A fuse might do. I however do not remember the actual numbers.


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
05-21-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 64
Post ID: 19370
Reply to: 19290
12v-5v service power supply
fiogf49gjkf0d
As all the parts for the full range Melquiades are making their way to meet me,I'm faced with the need for a 12v-5v service power supply (fan , hour meter, LEDs ).

How to approach the issue ?

1.buy regulated switched (and cheap) power supply and be done with it.
2.build a non regulated CRC power supply with 12v and 5v taps.

If option 1 is Ok in terms of sound that would make things easy.But if not then I would need some help in design (I have no real knowledge in electronics ).

Regards Daniel
05-22-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
decoud
United Kingdom
Posts 240
Joined on 03-01-2008

Post #: 65
Post ID: 19371
Reply to: 19370
Minimalism
fiogf49gjkf0d
For what it is worth, I use this for LEDs:
http://www.vellemanprojects.eu/products/view/?country=be&lang=en&id=379858
...but I have found no need for a fan or an hour meter, either of which would require something more elaborate. 
05-22-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 66
Post ID: 19373
Reply to: 19370
Service power supply
fiogf49gjkf0d
DA,

I would not use any switched power supply, not to mention that they do not need to be regulated for LEDs, relays and fans. I do not know if you build a full range Milq or more complicated multi-channel version. If it is a full range Milq with only one 6C33C then you truly do not need any fan. I have build-in fan in my full range Milq but I decided do not use it as it was not needed.

Fans can take surprisingly nigh current but if you have DC need only for LEDs and relays then you need super low power PF and it might be anything. You might take a parallel ran from filament and dump it to separate rectifier and filter. It would be under 1 dollar type PS and it will serve you well. All that you would need to do in future what the amp is running to confirm that it will be no auditable impact to the filaments. I do not think it will be but you never know.

The right way to do it, in my view, would be how I did it in my 6-ch Milquades. I have a separate transformer with separate rectifier and filter that serve only 12VDC that I need for all auxiliary service functionality. The right question would be to ask if my 12V DC auxiliary service power share the common ground with the rest amp. Honesty, I do not remember and I do not know as now what would be the right answer. Theoretically the service power might be completely floated as none of the service element has references to gourd. From another perspective anything floated is king of non-kosher and you might try to bias that service power relative to the common ground but running a resistor between minus of service power supply and common ground. I do not think that you will see any snick difference but you might see some noise differences, in particularly if you run service power wires in the amplifier negligently,

Rgs,
The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
05-22-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 67
Post ID: 19374
Reply to: 19373
The right service power supply
fiogf49gjkf0d
decoud - thanks for the link, nice and minimalist,but as minimalism  is no longer part of this project I need Unfortunately a more complex power supply.


Romy -I'm building a full range amp. But...I need a small foot print so it will be high and relative easy to addMore channels when the time comes.It is three "stories" high, the lower two are the power supply.



A picture of cardboard  first draft.(sorry for the low quality)



A fan (5v) will be put in the amp, I may or not use it for now.
Hour meter (12v)  - I think it's a good idea to have one.


I want to do it once the right way and with that I need help. There are a lot of sites with info but all the ones I could find talkedAbout regulated switched power supply and not for audio .If somebody knows a  simple to understand site that can help ,please please post a link....
05-23-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 68
Post ID: 19375
Reply to: 19374
Juts put is one extra transformer for now.
fiogf49gjkf0d
DA, from what you say I do not think you need actions to do now.  As I understand the power transformer for the amps most likely has been made. Since you are in design phase and the look forward to have a sever voltage then get 1-2A 12V transformer with single tap at 6.3V. This will be a few inch very small transformers that you can even get in Radio Shake for $10. Place it somewhere in your chassis and forget it. Sometime in future, when you will add to the all the bells and whistles then you will use the voltage of this transformer for whatever you need.


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
05-24-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Welborne
Posts 3
Joined on 05-23-2013

Post #: 69
Post ID: 19378
Reply to: 5559
Hello and Fullrange Melquiades schematics question
fiogf49gjkf0d
(sorry, this is supposed to be posted in the questions and answers colume but I must be so stupid to have it posted here and now I don't know how to move it there.)

Hi Romy,

How are you!  This is Welborne, from far across the ocean, Hong Kong. I have known your wonderful blog for long time (because I am a big fan of 6c33 single end and owns a stereo amp with this tube) but only recently I bring myself together to make the fullrange Melquiades.

My loudspeaker system is a Bastanis Mandala Chrystal open baffle system with 100db efficiency. Right now I have a few different amps rollling (D3a-300B DHT, 71a DHT etc) and the one that stands out is a 6c33 single end stereo based on the little pentode 6ac7 triode wired driving 6c33c.

I have not had the chance to hear the Melq, but from my limited exposure to 6c33, there is a spooky realm in the presentation this tube brings about when compared to what other amp does. I am not a tech expert, but I think the unique sound of 6c33 may come from its high transconductance, low internal resistance (meaning very low turns ratio for output transformer), and high current ability (high damping/control over the movement of the speaker unit).

Anyway, charmed by my own experience, I decide to make the Melq. Here are a few questions after I have had a good look at the schematics:

1) There are hexagons on the schematics marked with A, B, C ...M. What are these? Are they testing points or they carry some meaning? I can't find much info about these here.

2) Besides Schottky diodes, I seem to read somewhere that now you find something with better performance, and again I try to find them but got lost in the forum (your blog is huge ^^)

3) I find two R23 in the schematics. I believe this is an error. The one linking the anode and the grid I believe is a grid stopper and can use a 1/4w carbon film I suppose?

4) Regarding C2 and C10, is there an advantage going over the stated 2000uf? and is there a ceiling on the value one should go?

5) Primary impedance of output transformer: I am going for a custom made transformer based on Finemet c core, and I need to decide on the primary impedance for the builder. In my own 6c33 stereo I am using 980 ohm.

6) Here in Hong Kong I could not source Magecraft timer relay as they are all in 120v version (here the mains supply is 230v), so I am just going to use toggle switch to switch them on manually.

7) Meter: Is there a difference using a 300mv and a 300ma meter in terms of calibration?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Welborne

05-24-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 70
Post ID: 19379
Reply to: 19378
Answers.
fiogf49gjkf0d

 Welborne wrote:
1) There are hexagons on the schematics marked with A, B, C ...M. What are these? Are they testing points or they carry some meaning? I can't find much info about these here.
Yes, the hexagons are test points. Do not worry about them. I have my reasons to make them available.

 Welborne wrote:
2) Besides Schottky diodes, I seem to read somewhere that now you find something with better performance, and again I try to find them but got lost in the forum (your blog is huge ^^)
Yes, in 6-Ch Milq I used new at that time Silicon Carbide Diodes.

http://www.GoodSoundClub.com/TreeItem.aspx?PostID=6116

They are objectively better then any lower noise SS and run up to 1000V. However, I do not insist that they sound better. Also, it was years back, in 2007 and now something ease new might be available. Anyhow, you need to make some kind of test make and try to listen them or talk with somebody who know how they sound.

 Welborne wrote:
3) I find two R23 in the schematics. I believe this is an error. The one linking the anode and the grid I believe is a grid stopper and can use a 1/4w carbon film I suppose?

I did not see two R23 but I remember somebody told me about it before. Anyhow, if it is the case then this is obvious a mistake. The one that links anode and grid of the driver tube is not a grid stopper but a resistor that slightly decuple the potentials of grid and anode. Yes it might be very very low power, 1/8W would be fine but I would not comment about the type of resistor. There are people who like carbons and they might be right. I comment upon something that I tried and likes. The RN-55 from Dale was my chose and I do like those resistors a lot. Again, it was back in 2004 what I made those experiments and the thing might be changed. I have see that large companies that made very good resistors started made them to sound like crap.

 Welborne wrote:
4) Regarding C2 and C10, is there an advantage going over the stated 2000uf? and is there a ceiling on the value one should go?

Well, I feel the 2000uf is a minimum to decuple the PS from the tubes. In case of C10 that run might higher current it might be much higher. In my 6Ch version I went for36.000uF or something like that, I do not remember already. Yes, there are many advantages why the higher value of the last cap is better but they all purely intellectual. I doubt that blindly I will be able to say if Milq’s power tube is driven by PS with 2000uF or 3000uF. I think however that I will be able to say if it will be 470uF in there…

 Welborne wrote:
5) Primary impedance of output transformer: I am going for a custom made transformer based on Finemet c core, and I need to decide on the primary impedance for the builder. In my own 6c33 stereo I am using 980 ohm.
  Hm…. To load 6C33C with 980 ohm is somewhere near where I fill it has to be, at least with the acoustic systems that I tried. Some people swear by 600R but it too much load to 6C33C, they get more power but it did not work for me. Without knowing personally your speakers and a few other parameters it is very hard to guess how you will need to load your 6C33C. In initial stage I used the OPT with re-mapable coils that let me to play with loading variances. Perhaps you might try something like this.

 Welborne wrote:
6) Here in Hong Kong I could not source Magecraft timer relay as they are all in 120v version (here the mains supply is 230v), so I am just going to use toggle switch to switch them on manually.
You can use any other timer relay that you mike and that sound good to you or you can build or buy a very simple SS timer relay.  I think to use manual delay is kind of difficult. However, you can always add it later if you like the sound of the amp and decide to use it.

 Welborne wrote:
7) Meter: Is there a difference using a 300mv and a 300ma meter in terms of calibration?

Nope, you can use voltmeter or ampermeter. There is no difference, and from a good company they are well calibrated. I prefer to use voltmeter as I would like to make sure that the voltage measuring resistor is the resistor of my chose and that signal current doe not flow over the ampermeter wires.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
06-05-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 71
Post ID: 19439
Reply to: 19379
Practical advise for full range Milq
fiogf49gjkf0d
Hi

I'm now at a stage of building the chassis for full range Milq.It will be a two chassis,one power supply and one signal,very similar to Romys super Milq layout.The two will be connected by two separate cables AC and DC.

A few questions please

1.How and where to make ground connection to the chassis (signal and power supply and between them)

2.What are the test jacks near the 6c33c for (bais..)? In the photos there seems to be a resistor connected to one test jackand ground to the other but it is hard to see clearly.

3.How to deal with the difference in gain of 6c33c.or maybe it is not an issue.

Regards
Daniel
06-05-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 72
Post ID: 19440
Reply to: 19439
Answers
fiogf49gjkf0d
 DA wrote:
1.How and where to make ground connection to the chassis (signal and power supply and between them)

2.What are the test jacks near the 6c33c for (bais..)? In the photos there seems to be a resistor connected to one test jackand ground to the other but it is hard to see clearly.

3.How to deal with the difference in gain of 6c33c.or maybe it is not an issue.

 
Daniel, here what I did. Do not consider it as something that need to be imitated but that was decision and I have my reasoning behind them. I do not insist that I am right however.

1)  The ground connector to chassis on PS side is at rectifier point. I have all rectifiers sitting pretty much of the same very thick copper wire and that wife is grounded right there. The ground connector to chassis on amp side is right at the entry of RCA jack.  The cables that run between the chassis I think have 4-5 wires for ground but I do not remember if both cables have ground. The DC cable certainly does but I am not sure that filament cables do. I think filament cable has ground only from one side but I do not remember now. I think if they are identical length then you can ground both sides and then, after you test for loops you will be able to lift one if you find it necessary.

2)  Sorry, I do not know what you are asking. What test jacks near the 6c33c? There is nothing on schematics.

3)  The difference in gain of 6c33c is serially might be a problem and I did told about it many times. The gain might be not only as they new but they might age with different speed and gain of the identical tubes might (or might not) slightly drift and the go older. Generally it is not so bad but you will be able to see two new tubes with 1-2 dB gain difference. Some you will see some freak tubes with 3-4 dB of gain different but that is rare. It is very easy to much the tubes by gain. You might use the amp itself to do so as this is a very good tube tester. Burn in the tube that you want to use and then set then to run in the amp. Drive the identical signals to the both amps (I use a generator in my tuner – very convenient) and measure the outputs – as simple as this. You can use the acoustic dB miter but this is not accurate, particularly if you use horns. So, measus the voltage on the speaker line. I have a few Dorrough Loudness Meters w/Percent Modulation and they are after calibration is very accurate and very convent. I use it all time to run them across the channels of my 6Ch amp.
 


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
06-05-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 73
Post ID: 19441
Reply to: 19440
Test jacks
fiogf49gjkf0d
Thank you for answers .


Yes you are right there is nothing about test jacks (I do hope its the right name ) in the schematics. Sorry for not being clear. 
On the thread "Building Melquiades :chronicle of full range" page 1   last post. (post # 20)

http://www.goodsoundclub.com/Forums/ShowPost.aspx?PostID=2502
In the photo your voltmeter is pluged to Melquiades test jacks right behind the 6c33c. What's it's purpose ?
08-19-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 74
Post ID: 19943
Reply to: 19441
Melquiades debugging
fiogf49gjkf0d
Well two power supply's ready and one full range amp hooked up.Nothing blew up so that's good!

1) output stage 200mA /187V


2) driver stage 205v (test point A) and -4.3v bais


3)setting 0.000v on input is ok but not stable,some DC drift


4) bais lines are low at around 175v (point L ) and 146v - 147v ( point C and D ).    The power transformer for bais line puts out only 420 v for some reason and not 440v.    at this setting gas tubes draw only 5.5 mA current .


5) Filament voltage is also low at 5.9v . Transformer rated for 6.3 v / 10 A .driver and output connected in parallel    ( 6C33C in parallel heater connection )

Any ideas are well come especially with bais lines...I need at least 20v more....

08-19-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 75
Post ID: 19944
Reply to: 19943
Melquiades debugging.
fiogf49gjkf0d
Image in post above is power supply.
And amp in this image.
08-19-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 76
Post ID: 19945
Reply to: 19943
Bais and filament voltages
fiogf49gjkf0d
DA, looks like very nice  and lucid assembly. How do you like the sound of the thing?

The  output stage 200mA /187V. It is a bit too small but I will do. I do not know what the gap you have in your OPT. If it is limited to 200mA then stay there, you might crack the voltage to 200V if you need a little bit power from your 6C33C.

The  driver stage 205v (test point A) and -4.3v bais – that is perfect.

The DC drift at inputs – that shall not be. Where the drifts come from? The gas tube shall stabilize both positive and negative voltages. Are you sure that your preamps do not drive DC? Also, what the drift you are talking about? If you have the voltage dancing around -0.5 to +0.5 mA then I would consider it normal and you will not be able to stabilize it further. Try to hand-connect the single signal wire to your input jack. You shall not be able to hear any clicks or any effect indication that you are connecting or disconnecting. Also, I see a volume control at your input. Make sure that it is has impedance that in each position of the volume control the bias voltage does not change. You might pull the positive gas tube out of socket and shot the inputs. Then run the volume control up and down – your bias voltage shall be stable. Do not forget that positive bias that you apply to the input is virtually a shorting or juts a way to balance out the output impedance of your preamp and to kill DC what the amp is not connected.

The bias lines around 175v is too low and 5.5 mA current is very low. The gas tubes do not provide good regulation what they are too soft loaded. In my estimation you need to drive 20-30mA across the gas tubes in order then to be more stable in operation and surprisingly to sound better. If your transformer give too little voltage for bias supply then you need to adjust the volume of the R15 and R16 resistors or perhaps the R11 and R12 in order to have on the B and C point around 190V- 195V.

You do need to find a way to set the filament voltage higher. Do you think the guys who did your transformers fuck it up? If so you can take it with them. You do need 6.3V and I would make them to adjust it. How do you drive your amp? If you use something like Pure Power or PS audio regenerator then you might set it to 125 instead of 115V or something like this. This would be a not kosher fix and I would go for transformer makers instead.
It is look to me that they underpowered your transformers both bias and filament and perhabs the output plate transformer.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
08-19-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 77
Post ID: 19949
Reply to: 19945
Bais and filament voltage
fiogf49gjkf0d
Well, it looks like I got fucked by the transformer company.that realy sucks !!!  I have not talked to them yet ,but even if they agree to replace them it will take at least 6-8 weeks plus international shipping cost , import tax , VAT .

Filament transformer - if only the 6E5P is connected then I get 6.3v. Once I add the 6C33C voltage drops to 5.8 -5.9v.....
Bais transformer - only 415v instead of 440v...

How do you like the sound of the thing ?

Well can not comment on sound yet but it works (connected to a small monitor at my workshop ) sounds clean and nice...

The  output stage 200mA /187V. It is a bit too small but I will do. I do not know what the gap you have in your OPT. If it is limited to 200mA then stay there, you might crack the voltage to 200V if you need a little bit power from your 6C33C.

I use Lundhal 1627am /200mA  in D configuration . How to raise voltage if needed ? R22 ?
The DC drift at inputs – that shall not be

It is more then +- 0.5mV more like +- 2-3mV ,but I am not worried about it at this point.perhaps it has to do with the low current and voltage of gas tubes ?  If your transformer give too little voltage for bias supply then you need to adjust the volume of the R15 and R16 resistors or perhaps the R11 and R12 in order to have on the B and C point around 190V- 195V.  Replaced R15 and R16 but that did not work,even with 50 ohm resistors I only get 180v.
Anyway looks like the project is on hold for now and that (really) sucks.

Regards
Daniel
08-19-2013 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 9,495
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 78
Post ID: 19950
Reply to: 19949
Go after transformers maker.
fiogf49gjkf0d
Well, they did not meet your specification, that is simple as that and they shall be taking care of all international shipping cost , import tax , VAT. I am a bit surprised as if it is more or less serious company then they shall not be able to miss the specs in this way. They clearly were trying to save money by making for you transformer with lover VA. What the scams, who those assholes are?

if you are with Lundhal 1627am /200mA  the n stay with your 180-190mA and run ~ 200-210V. That is if you need a full power. If you have very sensitive load to driver them you might not need it and might go for a half plate and use 150-160mA. The proper way to raise voltage of cause is by use of higher voltage transformer but if you do not have this option and if you use a very high volume of C10 then you might drop the volume of R22. If the C10 is too high then the C11 and R22 do not really do anything and you can bypass them. 200mA over 50R resistor will not give you too much voltage gain however.
 
The drift over +- 2-3mV is OK and it will go much better if you load your gas tubes harder – the gas tubes do not have good stability at 5mA. Still, if the 2-3mA are drifting very slow then it is not a big deal.
 
If you got screwed with transformer then there is some way to selvedge the project by introducing a very mild input capacitor before the input chokes. That will swing voltage higher but this also will/might have some sonic effect. I would not do it as you will always feel fucked and compromised.  I am sorry that the transformer situation had happened to you but I think you have very legitimate complain to the transformers maker.
 


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
02-03-2014 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 79
Post ID: 20517
Reply to: 19950
Update , bais and high pass
fiogf49gjkf0d
A little update on the Milq amp.After sorting  some of the problems with the amps transformers (see posts above ) .I now have two mono blocks operational that have about 700 hours ,I'm so glad hour meters were installed .

Filament voltage is spot on 6.3v.

Plate voltage is low 190V / 185 mA as I decided not to change it yet because I want to live with it for awhile and then try using half 6c33c .it is apparent that power is not an issue with my speakers and room size.

Bais lines are 197 v. Gas tubes draw about 10mA . Now here is my  first question - how to make them draw 20 - 25mA ? R11 R12 ?

The second question has to do with how to unload the Milq from low  frequency  < 60hz ? How to or where to install a low pass filter ?

As you can see I have not commented on the Milq sound and there are reasons for that,you see my system (and room ) are new and in the long process of building , assembling , tuning and more tuning .... All I can say is that is is possible that this is the last system I will build , yes it is that promising !

Some details on the speakers which are based on the Macondo Axioms.

Bass.  -                          old 15 " pioneer driver in sealed 110 liter box. Will be replaced
Upper bass  -                  125hz horn 4"throat  fane 8m
Lower mid fundamental -  220hz horn 4" throat wizerless lowther pm6a.  Experimental
Mid   -  410 hz horn.       JBL 2440 
High.  -                          not sure yet

Best regards
Daniel
02-04-2014 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
DA
Posts 12
Joined on 04-10-2012

Post #: 80
Post ID: 20522
Reply to: 20517
Correction
fiogf49gjkf0d

DA wrote 
"The second question has to do with how to unload the Milq from low  frequency  < 60hz ? How to or where to install a low pass filter ? "



Correction-  it should read "How to or where to installation high pass filter ? "



Daniel 
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