Preparing for my Midbass Channel projects
…I did inventory if the drivers that I might use for it. I never did it before as the all were in different storages, now they are in one basement – very convenient. It is not secret that I intent to use Vitavox 15 inch drivers that I consider ridiculously good. I have a few 151, a few 10/40 and I one 154 and one that I am not sure number. The 151 and 10/40 are my best candidate and, boy, I just love the scarp their belly – the respond as a deck of 300 year cello. Here is a ketch however that I discovered – they all are different. If I take 4 of my 151 then each of them has cone slightly different from other. Sure they are 50 years old drivers and then were used during the time in different application/locations and aged differently. Still, they feel like have slightly different cone and then have very slightly different harmonics of cone’s response. They all have that Vitavoxy super-soft throaty tone but very-very different inflections into the gone.
I have new 151 and 10/40, I mean so new that it never was removed from original box, something so called “in paper” or as Russians say “a fly did not fuck on it”. I have some of the drivers have worn cone with some marks of cracks and tears. And of cause as it was very much expected according to the Murphy’s Law – the best sounding drivers are the pair that has max cracks. A one of them, that has even a huge damage as 1” rip is my absolutely best driver – tonally it is totally out of this word. It is possible that it has to do with moisture and other conditions. However, prior to selecting a pair of the drivers I will be using in my Midbass Channel I would like to fix my drivers that need to be fixed.
So, here is the question – how properly to deal with minor cracks, rips and tears and do not ruin so precious driver’s sound?
Sure, the reckoning is out of question. The regular glues and patches that drivers fixing companies are using are out of picture. In a past I have a good success to apply women stockings over the tears soaked in the Elmer Glue of some kind of wood glue. It was long time ago and I guess at that time those types of glues were made from cellulose. It was good for driver but nowadays those glues are made from petroleum. The problem with petroleum glue is that it maintains good texture for some time – a few month and then become too dry – not good for my application.
The best result I was able to get when I was repairing my Altec 15G drivers. After long research and a lot of consulting with different people I came up with my own mixture. I use cigarette paper that I soaked in table tennis glue, while did soaking I add some chalk dust. It was very good but it was very frigidly and was not working for a long time, or work only on very-very small cuts. However, it was for a while back and at that time I did not have as high objectives as I have to my 15” driver now.
My objectives are to have a patch or in in-cone filler that would absolutely not change the response of the driver if I move my nail across the cone and across the fixed location. Do anybody has any “secretive” and proven methodology that you might advise. I hears a lot of good feedback about hatin (what the roach’s legs are mane from) but hatin is not glueee and would need to be accompanied with some adhesive substance that would not ruin nether up the driver mechanical texture not the speed of sound across the cone.
Rgs, The Cat
"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche