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   Home » Horn-Loaded Speakers» JBL2440 on a round 300Hz tractrix horn (6 posts, 1 page)
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  »  New  Vintage JBL products lingo...  Vintage JBL products lingo....  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     0  54354  04-14-2005
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11-29-2004 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Timothy L. Davis
Brookline, US
Posts 7
Joined on 05-12-2005

Post #: 1
Post ID: 316
Reply to: 316
JBL2440 on a round 300Hz tractrix horn

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Compared to all the drivers out there,are they respectable at all.Just from my experience over time they sound better when crossed over above 800Hz.But still theres something odd.Am I for the price range of these drivers better off getting something different.I don,t have the money to try many different drivers.Is there a better solution or a way to improve the tonal quality.Regards Tim

11-29-2004 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,049
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 2
Post ID: 317
Reply to: 316
JBL into 300Hz horn

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Hi, Tim.

This is difficult question, and it is difficult in it’s abstractivnes. I really do not understand, or understand but refuse to acknowledge the validity of the word “respectable”. How valid for YOU would be a “reputation” of this driver if it DOES in your installation what YOU need? However, my experience indicates that if people ask those questions whan there are some issues. Which brings to the contra-question: what is wrong in the “tonal quality” that your get out of 2440 that makes to worry? Am not trying to pick on your but just detect what you would like to accomplish.

Generally, I liked what 2440 does. This driver is atypical JBL driver, probably among better of them, particularly for the money. All those 2440, 2441, 2445 and few others they are essentially the same drivers with very a slightly different gap geometry and few other minor things. (I call them the “poor’s man 375” ),  They all do more of less the same quite reliably-none-faulty sound and for those $250-$300 that they cost today they do very well. The only important thing (and I can’t stress if strong enough) is to use thier original aluminum diaphragms and under no circumstances to put in the contemporary titanium diaphragms. With the titanium diaphragms those driver sound very crappy and very hi-fiish.

One more thing, you said that “they sound better when crossed over above 800Hz.” Any compression driver sound better when you have 1-2 octaves under it’s lower knee and when the driver (and horn!!!) is not overwhelmed with the lover mid range. (It I what most ignorant people love to do: to peruse as low crossover point as possible for their compression drivers driver mid-channels and eliminate the upper bass drivers. This is a big mistake and I consider that upper bass channel is the key for any horn loaded installation)

So, if you suggest that  it “sound better when crossed over above 800Hz” that why do you use the 300Hz horn? I personally find that most 300 Horns are conceptually faulty as they have too large bell for the typical 2”-4”compression driver. If you have a chance then try to load your 2440, crossed at 800Hz into 400-450Hz horn instead of 300Hz. You will have many benefits: a shorter horn,  twice smaller horn, better HF, wider dissipation pattern, less throat reactance (less air mass in the bell), better transient response, way less possibility to get horn’s honk, ability to use “more interesting” low pass filter in your upperbass channel….

What I have seen was that people load their compression drivers into the belly of the oversized horns. As the result they do not ingrate their upperbass channel with the horn-loaded mid-channels but they integrate their upperbass channel with those artificial lower-mid frequency noise coming from the large belly of the oversized horns, that horns that in their case act as the “virtual resonators” and produce more the “large barrel sound” then actual useful sound.

Rgs,
Romy the Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-10-2005 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
MusicLover
Tulsa, OK, United States
Posts 18
Joined on 01-07-2005

Post #: 3
Post ID: 490
Reply to: 317
Why should a midrange horn have an octave or two bottom?

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Romy,
I understand you are saying that a midrange horn rated flat to 300HZ should really be crossed at  600 or 1200 HZ. That claim doesn't make sense to me, esp. with a 24 db or higher crossover (active). Unless you are saying that horn/driver combos that are measured as being flat to, say 300HZ, really are not flat, I don't see the issue.
Perhaps you could explain why, i'd appreciate it.  
ML

01-10-2005 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,049
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 4
Post ID: 493
Reply to: 490
.... an octave or two bottom...

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Well,

first of all the phrase “rated flat to 300HZ” is kind of ambiguous. There is no such a thing as “rating” - they write whatever they wanted. Second: yes, you understand me correctly, I would prefer to have lot of room at bottom and I feel that it is better to have an extra channel then your force a driver to handle the lowest octaves or to stress a driver to it’s limited excursions.

Due to the educational reasons I would avoid explain it further. I would suggest to you make some experiments and make your own conclusions.

1) Make experiments with different crossover orders and find out why the 24 db or higher crossovers mush not be used.
2) Make experiments with any know to you mid-rage driver and see how the midrange changes sine you begin to unload the LF from the driver

Rgs,
Romy the Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-12-2005 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
MusicLover
Tulsa, OK, United States
Posts 18
Joined on 01-07-2005

Post #: 5
Post ID: 501
Reply to: 493
Thanks Romy

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I'll experiment, when i build another set of speakers.
ML
09-22-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Dominik
Poland
Posts 48
Joined on 09-14-2008

Post #: 6
Post ID: 14532
Reply to: 501
How to renovate 2440?
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Hi,
Finally, I have time to build some horn speakers and learn what is it,  bought JBL 2440 drivers and before my frame will by finish (next week) and horns will arrive I want to renovate those drivers. My question is:

Can I take off that "grainy" topcoat and then paint the drivers? or that paint have someperform functions?



Regards
Dominik
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   Target    Threads for related reading   Most recent post in related threads   Forum  Replies   Views   Started 
  »  New  Vintage JBL products lingo...  Vintage JBL products lingo....  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     0  54354  04-14-2005
  »  New  CD horn and JBL: Crossover point..  Great White Horn...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     2  34606  09-26-2006
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