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In the Forum: Playback Listening
In the Thread: Wine, women, song.. and audio
Post Subject: Old bubbles...Posted by de charlus on: 8/6/2013
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Yes, I have, but there aren't nearly so many around as people think. It is only the austere, often Blancs de Blancs style that's well suited to prolonged aging, most particularly those wines coming from the Clos de Mesnil, or just the ultra-rich, masculine style as exemplified by Krug. Dom Perignon falls into the former category, and I've enjoyed the 21, 26 and 43 in particular. Krug 28 is rightly legendary, whilst the Krug Clos de Mesnil Blancs de Blancs and Salon de Mesnil - one of the unspoken secrets of the wine world - are excellent in 11, 21, 28, 43, 59 and 71. The same can be said of venerable Pol Roger, both standard vintage but particularly Cuvee Winston Churchill being stunning in 21 and 28 - the 90 is certainly something to fill your cellar with though; it will age like a dream. Another Champagne that ages very well is Bollinger Vielle Vignes Francais, made from a small package of ancient, pre-phyloxera vines giving minute yields of Pinot Noir, making the wine a Blancs de Noirs. The 69 and 71 are breathtaking. Also, Bollinger does a series of "RD" wines - "reccement degorgement" - meaning that whilst they may indeed be 59, 71, 76, 82, 85 etc vintages, they have been left on their lees since bottling and are only disgorged upon release. These wines are unbelievably rich, toasty and nutty - hence all that lees exposure - and perfectly cellared since they've lain at Bollinger since just before release. I had a dinner at Bollinger a few years back, wherein every one of 7 courses was more than ably accompanied by RD wines, the 76 in particular harmonizing beautifully with a blanquette de veau, the 71 being sufficiently rich to accompany a selection of cheeses. Caveat emptor! Almost all of these wines were consumed at the respective chateau; Champagnes intended for this kind of aging require perfect cellaring. I do hope that the above whet your whistle somewhat:-)

de Charlus

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